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San Diego - August 22

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It's funny how recent experiences can seem so far away. No matter how arresting a sight, how pungent a smell, how exhausting a travel day, how exhilarating a first wave on a different continent when you realize "right, it still works the same way here", all those strong experiences still fade into the sights, sounds, and feelings right in front of you. I join Mr. Bojangles for my first Windansea surf check back in San Diego Sitting on the beach here in San Diego, it's almost like that first wave, that sailing trip, those meals, those three days in a campervan never happened. In that split second between the last night on this beach and this morning on this beach, all those memories had spontaneously appeared, simultaneously brought with an accompanying familiarity that gently reminds "yes, you were actually there." I'll put the brakes on the introspective mumbo jumbo before I get too mopey. Really just wanted to get across "I'm ...
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July 10 - Gerupuk, Lombok

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The days are starting to feel long. I feel like I've done so much here already, and I'm only on my second full day. I really like being in one place for awhile, and getting to meet (and interact) with the people. Otherwise it feels superficial, going from POI to POI, feeling a bit like I'm just doing it so I can tell my friends at home that I did. Decided to take a day off of surfing. Instead of going out in the morning, I spent the time roaming the village with my camera. Gerupuk is a small fishing village, and most of the daily life I've seen is tied to that. Boats come into the beach in the morning, and meet the rest of the family to string out the nets and pick the day's catch from the webbing. Man, woman, child, and toddler is involved in bringing food to the table - makes me feel a little guilty when I remember how unfair I thought summer yard work was as a kid. However, I no...
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July 9 - Gerupuk, Lombok

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Some pictures and a couple thoughts from the day. I woke up to harsh smell, and assumed it was a strong cigarette, maybe with clove or something. Woke up later than I wanted to, didn't sleep that well (lot of prayer calls, the blanket and hoodie I was using as a sheet weren't really cutting it). I'm hoping to start feeling like I wake up ready to go. Morning routine, had a turkish egg (omelette w/ veggies, but without being scrambled) and coffee. Stretched. Found a Takayama In the Pink (exactly what I have back home!), decided to paddle out to Don Don. Figured would be good exercise, and with the wind being pretty mild, might even get some waves. Ended up overshooting a bit, and by the time I figure out where I was, had to paddle in from the back rather than the side. Mojo surf camp was there, but I was able to sit in a good spot and catch the bigger ones when they came through. Size was small, but reminded me of Tourmo - work to get into wa...
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